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Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology shines historic light on dark glamour


Daily News Fashion Editor

Saturday, October 11, 2008


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Fashion from 'Gothic: Dark Glamour,' on view at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.
 
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Brooks Brothers will launch two fragrances in November, one for 'ladies' and the other for 'gentlemen.'
 
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Attire from the Victorian era is on display at the 'Gothic: Dark Glamour' show.
 
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Laurent Chevalier, the new general manager at Café Boulud, had Stubbs & Wootton make a special pair of slippers with the initials of his new employer, Daniel Boulud.
 

Though fashion historian Valerie Steele, director and curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, has been working on the recently opened "Gothic: Dark Glamour" exhibition for two years, the somewhat somber mood of the clothing and accessories on view seems to be particularly appropriate for the current, somewhat pessimistic times — both in terms of cutting-edge fashion sensibilities and the gloomy state of the economy.

To add to the timeliness of the exhibit's focus, Halloween, that celebration of the mysterious and macabre, with costumes a key ingredient, is right around the corner.

The "Gothic" show, on view through Feb. 21 at The Museum at FIT, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street in Manhattan, features more than 75 ensembles reflecting the various incarnations of so-called Goth style embraced by dressmakers, designers and others since the 19th century.

Attire dating from the Victorian era to that worn by what Steele calls the "elegant Gothic Lolitas" of present-day Japan is included. "Although popularly identified with black-clad teenagers and rock musicians, the gothic has also been an important theme in contemporary fashion," Steele said. Thus, pieces from darkly conceived collections by Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Boudicca, Chanel, Rodarte, Dior, Olivier Theyskens, Thierry Mugler, John Paul Gaultier, Anna Sui, Yohji Yamamoto and many other familiar designer names are featured.

For information about the "Gothic: Dark Glamour" show, which is open to the public at no charge, and related events scheduled throughout the run of the show, go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum or call (212) 217-4585.

Letter perfect — Laurent Chevalier, the new general manager at Café Boulud in the Brazilian Court, wanted to make a stylish gesture to mark his arrival in Palm Beach. Chevalier, who managed the restaurant Payard on Manhattan's Upper East Side before taking on the job at Daniel Boulud's island outpost, was aware of Stubbs & Wootton, the Palm Beach-based cobbler, through its New York City store, located just a few doors down from Payard. He decided to ask Percy Steinhart, Stubbs & Wootton's owner, to create a pair of classic velvet slippers with the initials of his new employer on them, just for fun. "The Stubbs shoes, besides being very stylish and very Palm Beachy are casual and elegant," Chevalier said. "They can be worn with a suit or even jeans without being out of place."

Stubbs & Wootton, 4 Via Mizner, is able to produce individually monogrammed or designed slippers for men and women by special order. Chevalier's DB slippers cost him $395.

On the scent — Brooks Brothers will soon debut new fragrances for men and women.

They are called Brooks Brothers New York, in versions for "gentlemen" and "ladies." The men's eau de toilette, created by Richard Herpin, has notes of citrus, orris, spicy carnation, oak moss, vetiver and musk. The women's scent, according to its designer Ilias Ermenidis, is "a bright, modern, utterly ladylike bouquet of white flowers including jasmine petals, freesia, orange flower and a hint of modern orris." The men's scent will be offered in 3.4 ounce and 1.7 ounce bottles for $75 and $55, with a 5-ounce after-shave balm for $35. The ladies' eau de parfum will cost $85 for a 3.4-ounce bottle and $65 for a 1.7 ounce size. A women's 5-ounce body cream will be $40. They will be in stock beginning in November at Brooks Brothers, 225C Worth Ave.

Added coverage — Susana Diaz, who opened the Tous boutique on South County Road a few years' back, has opened a second boutique at The Gardens Mall in Palm Beach Gardens. Featured is the full line of jewelry and accessories from the Spain-based Tous collection.

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